Heat detector fitting in Exeter
Professional heat detector fitting services in Exeter and surrounding areas. Local, reliable handyman - no job too small.
Price Guide
£60
Typical Duration
30-45 mins
Location
Exeter, Devon
Heat detectors fitted in kitchens for fire safety without the false alarms you get from smoke detectors. We position them correctly, mount securely, test properly, and make sure they're working before we leave. Simple job done right.
Smoke alarms in kitchens go off when you burn toast. Heat detectors respond to actual dangerous temperature rises, not cooking steam. They're essential for proper fire safety coverage without constant nuisance alarms.
What's Included
| Service | Details |
|---|---|
| Positioning advice | Best location for your kitchen layout |
| Ceiling mounting | Secure fixing to ceiling joists or plasterboard |
| Battery installation | Fit battery and test (battery-powered models) |
| Testing | Ensure detector responds correctly to heat |
| Clean finish | Tidy installation, no mess |
Detector Types
| Type | Description | Best For | Price Guide |
|---|---|---|---|
| Battery heat alarm | Standalone, 9V or 10-year sealed battery | Existing homes, simple retrofit | £15-25 |
| Mains heat alarm | 230V mains powered with battery backup | New builds, kitchen renovations | £25-35 |
| Interlinked wireless | Radio-linked to other alarms | Whole-house fire safety upgrade | £35-50 |
| Mains interlinked | Hard-wired interconnection | New builds, major works | £30-40 |
We can supply detectors or fit ones you've bought. All must meet BS 5446-2 standard.
Why Choose Us for Heat detector fitting in Exeter?
Compliant with fire safety regs
Correct positioning for kitchens
Battery or mains powered options
Tested before we leave
What to Expect
1. Assessment & Positioning We check your kitchen ceiling, identify the best position (centre, avoiding beams and fittings), confirm whether battery or mains powered, and check ceiling type for appropriate fixing.
2. Professional Installation We mark the position accurately, drill fixing holes (into joists if possible, or use plasterboard fixings), secure the mounting base firmly, and attach the detector unit. Mains detectors need electrician work for power connection.
3. Testing & Handover We test the detector using the test button, show you how to test it yourself, explain battery replacement (if applicable), and demonstrate the alarm sound. You'll get maintenance advice.
🔧 DIY Tips
Want to fit a heat detector yourself? Here's what to know:
- Central position: Middle of the ceiling gives best coverage - don't stick it in a corner
- Height matters: Ceilings above 3m need specialist detectors - heat rises differently in tall rooms
- Avoid dead air spaces: Don't position within 300mm of walls or corners where air doesn't circulate
- Secure fixing: Plasterboard needs proper fixings, not just screws into the board itself
- Test before closing up: Check it works with the test button before you put the ladder away
Heat detectors are simpler than smoke alarms (no optical sensors to position), but placement still matters for proper coverage.
Rather leave it to a pro? No problem - that's what I'm here for. Give me a call.
Good to Know
Legislation: New builds and major renovations need Grade D1 alarms (mains-powered with battery backup, interlinked). Existing homes should have working heat detectors in kitchens but standalone is acceptable.
Lifespan: Most heat detectors last 10 years. Sealed battery models replace the whole unit when the battery dies. Replaceable battery models need new batteries yearly.
Positioning rules: Centre of kitchen ceiling, minimum 300mm from walls, light fittings, and beams. Avoid directly above the hob where concentrated heat might cause false alarms.
Temperature rating: Most domestic heat detectors trigger at 58°C. Some have rate-of-rise detection (rapid temperature increase) as well as fixed temperature threshold.
Not a smoke alarm: Heat detectors don't replace smoke alarms - you need both. Smoke alarms in hallways/bedrooms/living areas, heat detectors in kitchens (and garages if you have them).
Interlinking: Wired interlinking needs cable run during construction. Wireless/radio-linked systems retrofit easily and all alarms sound when one triggers - much safer for sleeping occupants.
Testing: Press the test button monthly to ensure it works. Replace batteries in non-sealed units annually. Replace entire unit after 10 years regardless of condition.
Maintenance: Keep it clean - dust and grease can affect performance. Wipe with damp cloth occasionally. Don't paint over it.
Frequently Asked Questions
How much does heat detector fitting cost?
Heat detector fitting is £60 including labour and basic mounting. This covers ceiling mounting, testing, and ensuring correct positioning. The detector unit itself is extra (typically £15-30 depending on model).
What's the difference between smoke and heat detectors?
Smoke detectors detect smoke particles - good for hallways and bedrooms. Heat detectors respond to temperature rise - essential for kitchens where smoke detectors cause false alarms from cooking. Both are needed for proper coverage.
Where should a heat detector be positioned?
Centre of kitchen ceiling is ideal, at least 300mm from walls and light fittings. Avoid positioning directly above the cooker where heat concentration is highest. We'll advise on the best spot for your kitchen layout.
Do heat detectors need to be interlinked?
New build and major renovations require interlinked alarms (so all sound when one triggers). Existing homes don't legally require it, but interlinking improves safety. We can fit standalone or interlinked systems.
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