Float valve replacement in Exeter
Professional float valve replacement services in Exeter and surrounding areas. Local, reliable handyman - no job too small.
Price Guide
£60-£85
Typical Duration
0.5-1.5 hrs
Location
Exeter, Devon
Broken float valves replaced to stop running toilets and overflowing cisterns. I fit modern reliable valves, adjust the water level correctly, and test everything works properly.
When Your Toilet Won't Stop Running
Constant hiss from the cistern? Water trickling into the overflow? The float valve's not shutting off properly. Could be worn washer, bent float arm, or the whole valve's corroded. New valve fixes it and stops wasting water.
💡 Pro tip: If your toilet runs constantly, you're wasting about 200+ liters per day. That's about £150 per year down the drain. New float valve costs way less and pays for itself in weeks.
Modern Valve vs Old Brass Ballcock
Not all float valves are equal:
| ✅ Modern Equilibrium Valve | ❌ Old Brass Ballcock |
|---|---|
| Quiet operation | Noisy filling, everyone knows when you flush |
| Bottom entry (out of the way) | Side entry (gets in the way) |
| Self-cleaning valve | Prone to limescale buildup |
| Precise shut-off | Dribbles past worn washer |
| Compact design | Big brass arm gets bent |
What You Get
🔧 The Service
| Stage | What Happens |
|---|---|
| Isolate | Turn off water supply |
| Drain | Empty cistern, disconnect old valve |
| Replace | Fit new valve with proper seals |
| Adjust | Set water level correctly |
| Test | Flush multiple times, check shut-off |
📦 You're Left With
- Toilet stops running constantly
- Cistern fills properly and shuts off
- Quiet operation (if fitted equilibrium valve)
- Water level set correctly
Pricing Guide
| Job Type | Estimated Time | You'll Pay |
|---|---|---|
| Toilet cistern float valve | 30 mins-1 hr | £60 (minimum) |
| Loft tank float valve | 1-1.5 hrs | £60-£85 |
| Multiple valves (toilet + loft) | 1.5 hrs | £85 |
Based on £60 minimum (first hour) + £50/hr after. Includes standard float valve.
Perfect For Your Project If...
✅ Constantly running toilet - wasting water, annoying noise
✅ Overflow dripping - water trickling out of overflow pipe
✅ Won't fill properly - cistern takes ages to refill
✅ Noisy filling - whole house knows when toilet's been flushed
Why Choose Us for Float valve replacement in Exeter?
Toilet stops running constantly
Water level controlled properly
Modern quiet valve fitted
No more overflow issues
What to Expect
Step 1: Turn Off Water
Shut off the supply to the cistern - usually a valve on the pipe below the cistern, or main stopcock if there isn't one.
Step 2: Drain Cistern
Flush to empty the cistern. Sponge out any remaining water. Now I can work without flooding.
Step 3: Disconnect Old Valve
Undo the nut holding the old valve in place. Side-entry valves have a big nut outside the cistern, bottom-entry have one underneath. Old corroded fittings can be stubborn.
Step 4: Fit New Valve
New valve goes in with rubber seals both sides. Tighten the locknut to hold it in place - firm but not gorilla-tight or you'll crack the cistern.
Step 5: Connect Supply
Attach the water supply pipe to the new valve. Modern valves have compression fittings, easier than the old threaded connections.
Step 6: Adjust & Test
Turn water on, let cistern fill, adjust the float so water level sits about 25mm below overflow. Flush a few times to check it shuts off properly each time.
🔧 DIY Tips
Float valve replacement is definitely doable DIY:
🔧 Tools you'll need
- Adjustable spanners (two useful)
- Bucket and sponge
- PTFE tape
- Possibly WD-40 for seized fittings
💧 The process
- Turn off water - valve on supply pipe or stopcock
- Flush toilet - empty cistern
- Disconnect supply - undo nut on pipe
- Remove old valve - undo locknut inside cistern
- Fit new valve - rubber seals both sides, tighten locknut
- Reconnect supply - compression fitting, don't overtighten
- Turn water on - let it fill
- Adjust float - water should stop 25mm below overflow
- Test - flush several times, check shut-off
⚠️ Common DIY mistakes
- Overtightening locknut (cracks the cistern)
- Water level set too high (overflows when water pressure fluctuates)
- Not using PTFE tape on threads (slow drips)
- Wrong valve type for your cistern
- Not testing properly (seems fine, fails next day)
💡 Pro trick: When adjusting water level on a float valve, bend the arm for brass types, or turn the adjustment screw for modern ones. Aim for 25mm below the overflow outlet - gives you margin if water pressure increases.
Bottom entry vs side entry - bottom entry (equilibrium valves) are quieter and more compact, but your cistern needs the right hole. Check before buying. Side entry works in any cistern but noisier.
Rather leave it to a pro? No problem - that's what I'm here for. Give me a call.
Good to Know
🚽 Modern cisterns - usually take bottom-entry valves. Older cisterns have side-entry. I carry both types. If your cistern allows it, I'll fit the quieter bottom-entry type.
Dual flush cisterns - these have different fill valves, often with bottom entry. Need the right type for your make of cistern. I can usually get the right part same-day from local merchants.
Loft tank valves - bigger than toilet valves (higher flow rate needed). Usually brass ballcocks rather than plastic. Still the same replacement process, just different valve.
Limescale - if you're in a hard water area and your old valve's clogged with limescale, the new one will eventually get the same. Modern valves resist it better but not immune. Fit a water softener if it's really bad.
Close-coupled toilets - toilet and cistern are one unit, usually less space to work. Takes a bit longer than old-style high-level cisterns with more room. Still doable, just fiddly.
Frequently Asked Questions
How do I know if my float valve needs replacing?
Signs are toilet constantly running, cistern not filling properly, water trickling into overflow, or hissing noise from the cistern. Sometimes the float arm's bent or the washer's worn, but if it's old or corroded, replacement's better than repair.
Can you fit a quieter valve than I've got now?
Yes - modern equilibrium valves (bottom entry) are much quieter than old brass ballcocks (side entry). If your cistern allows it, I'll fit the quiet type. Makes a big difference, especially at night.
Will my water bill go down after replacing the float valve?
If your toilet's been constantly running, absolutely. A running toilet can waste 200+ liters per day. New valve that shuts off properly stops that waste. You'll notice it on your next bill.
How long does float valve replacement take?
Usually 30 minutes to an hour. Turn water off, drain cistern, disconnect old valve, fit new one, adjust the level, test. Simple job unless access is awkward or fittings are seized.
Do I need a different type of float valve for loft tanks?
Loft tanks usually have bigger float valves than toilets (higher flow rate to fill the tank faster). Same principle though - I'll fit the right type for your tank size. Loft tanks might take slightly longer because of access.
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