Exeter has some beautiful Victorian and Edwardian homes - St Leonard's, Heavitree, Pennsylvania, Mount Radford - but living in one means dealing with problems you won't find in modern builds.
I work in these houses every week. Here's what to expect and how to handle it.
1. Damp and Moisture Issues
The problem: Victorian houses were designed to "breathe." Modern interventions (cement render, plastic paint, blocked vents) often stop this and trap moisture.
Signs:
- Peeling paint or bubbling wallpaper
- Musty smell
- Tide marks on walls
- Black mould in corners
What to do:
- Check air bricks aren't blocked - These ventilate under the floor
- Don't use impermeable paint on internal walls - use breathable options
- Check gutters and downpipes - Water ingress is the biggest cause
- Investigate rising damp carefully - It's often misdiagnosed (usually penetrating damp instead)
When to worry: If damp is getting worse despite good ventilation, get a proper survey. Avoid any company offering free "damp surveys" - they're usually selling injected DPCs you probably don't need.
2. Lime Plaster Issues
The problem: Victorian homes have lime plaster, not modern gypsum. It behaves differently.
Signs:
- Soft, crumbly patches
- Hollow-sounding areas
- Plaster falling away from walls
- Cracks along lath lines
What to do:
- Small repairs: Use lime-based filler, not modern fillers
- Hollow areas: Sometimes can be re-bonded with lime injection
- Large areas: May need re-plastering with lime (specialist job)
- Don't skim with gypsum - It's harder and can damage lime plaster over time
The reality: Patching lime plaster is harder than modern plaster. Finding a plasterer who works with lime is worth the effort for anything substantial.
3. Sash Window Problems
The problem: Original sash windows are beautiful but need maintenance. Years of paint and swelling/shrinking wood cause issues.
Common issues:
- Windows stuck shut (or won't stay open)
- Rattling and draughts
- Broken sash cords
- Rotten wood at the bottom rail
What to do:
- Stuck windows: Cut paint seals with a sharp knife, work the sashes free gently
- Draughts: Fit draught strips to the frame
- Broken cords: Replace sash cords (fiddly but doable)
- Rot: Small areas can be cut out and filled; larger rot needs timber splice repair
Don't: Replace originals with uPVC without good reason. Properly maintained timber sashes last longer, work better, and look right.
4. Floors That Move
The problem: Suspended timber floors over time develop squeaks, bounce, and gaps between boards.
Signs:
- Squeaky boards
- Gaps opening between floorboards (especially in winter when heating's on)
- Bouncy or uneven floors
- Draughts coming up through the floor
What to do:
- Squeaks: Screw down loose boards (see our guide on fixing squeaky floors)
- Gaps: You can fill with flexible filler, rope, or slivers of wood
- Draughts: Check air bricks are clear but underfloor insulation helps
- Bounce: May indicate joist problems - worth investigating
5. Doors That Stick (Or Don't Fit)
The problem: Doors swell and shrink seasonally. Add 100+ years of paint and movement, and fitting issues are inevitable.
Signs:
- Doors stick in winter (damp) and are fine in summer
- Large gaps around doors
- Hinges pulling away
- Latch doesn't meet strike plate
What to do:
- Sticking: Plane or sand the edge (see our door adjustment guide)
- Hinge issues: Tighten or reposition hinges
- Gaps: Fit draught excluders
- Badly fitting doors: Sometimes easier to replace with a new door fitted properly
6. Cold and Draughts
The problem: Victorian homes weren't built with insulation. Single-glazed windows, uninsulated walls, and gaps everywhere make them expensive to heat.
Quick wins:
- Secondary glazing - Much better than replacing windows
- Draught-proofing - Windows, doors, letterboxes, keyholes
- Chimney balloons - For unused fireplaces
- Heavy curtains - Make a surprising difference
- Loft insulation - If accessible
Bigger projects:
- Internal wall insulation (must be breathable)
- Underfloor insulation
- Solid wall insulation (external or internal)
7. Fireplaces and Chimneys
The problem: Many Victorian fireplaces were blocked up or removed. Chimneys may be damp, leaking, or birds have moved in.
Issues:
- Damp stains around blocked fireplaces
- Cold draughts down chimneys
- Damaged chimney pots and flashings
- Nesting birds
What to do:
- Damp around fireplace: Often needs better ventilation (vent in blocked opening)
- Unused chimneys: Cap the pot but ventilate at the top and bottom
- Bird nests: Get the nest removed and fit a cowl
- Damaged flashings: Sort sooner rather than later - water ingress damages more over time
8. Electrical and Plumbing
The problem: Original wiring and plumbing is long gone, but many Victorian houses have had multiple "updates" over the years, often bodged.
Watch for:
- Old fuse boxes (should be modern consumer unit)
- Mix of old and new wiring
- Lead pipes (especially main supply)
- Disjointed plumbing from multiple modifications
What to do:
- Get an EICR (Electrical Installation Condition Report) if you're unsure
- Lead pipes should be replaced - your water company may help with the external section
- Plan any updates properly rather than more bodging
Living With a Victorian Home
Victorian houses need more maintenance than modern homes, but they reward it with character, solid construction, and proper ceiling heights.
Key principles:
- Let it breathe - Avoid trapping moisture
- Use appropriate materials - Lime for lime, breathable paints
- Maintain regularly - Small jobs prevent big problems
- Work with the house - Not against it
Need help with your Victorian home? I work in these houses every week - from basic repairs to period-sensitive work. Call 01392 964094 or get a quote.
Sam Hembury
Sam is the founder of Hembury Contracting, providing professional handyman services across Exeter and Devon. With years of experience in property maintenance, he shares practical tips to help homeowners tackle common tasks.