A crooked shelf drives me mad. Here's how to hang them properly - level, secure, and not falling off the wall in a month.
What You'll Need
- Spirit level (at least 60cm)
- Tape measure
- Pencil
- Drill
- Appropriate fixings (see below)
- Screwdriver or driver bit
- Shelf and brackets
Step 1: Choose the Right Fixings
This is where most people go wrong.
| Wall Type | Light Load | Heavy Load |
|---|---|---|
| Plasterboard (into stud) | Wood screw (50mm+) | Wood screw (75mm+) |
| Plasterboard (cavity) | Hollow wall anchor | Spring toggle |
| Brick | Brown rawlplug | Shield anchor |
| Block | Brown rawlplug | Shield anchor |
| Stone | Brown rawlplug (long) | Resin anchor |
Find your stud if possible - it's always stronger than cavity fixings.
Step 2: Plan Your Bracket Positions
The rules:
- Brackets no more than 60cm apart (for average shelving)
- First and last bracket within 15cm of shelf ends
- Heavier loads = more brackets
Example for a 90cm shelf:
- Two brackets, each about 10-15cm from the end
- That's roughly 60-70cm apart - fine for most loads
Step 3: Mark the First Bracket
-
Decide the height - Hold the shelf where you want it, or measure from floor/ceiling
-
Mark ONE screw hole - Just one hole of the first bracket
-
Check it's where you want it - Step back, look at it
Don't mark both brackets yet - getting them level comes next.
Step 4: Get It Level
Method 1: Spirit Level from First Mark
- Hold bracket at your first mark
- Place spirit level on top of bracket
- Adjust until bubble is centred
- Mark the screw holes
Method 2: Level Line
- From your first mark, use a spirit level to draw a faint horizontal line
- Measure along this line for second bracket position
- Mark second bracket positions on the level line
Method 3: Laser Level (if you have one)
- Set up laser level at your first mark height
- Laser gives you a level line automatically
- Position brackets anywhere on that line
Step 5: Mark All Holes
With your level line/marks established:
- Hold each bracket in position
- Mark through the screw holes with pencil
- Double-check everything is level before drilling
Pro tip: Use a bradawl or sharp nail to make a dimple at each mark. This stops the drill wandering.
Step 6: Drill and Fix
For Solid Walls (Brick, Block, Stone)
- Drill holes with masonry bit (size matches your rawlplugs)
- Drill slightly deeper than plug length
- Push in rawlplugs (should be snug)
- Hold bracket, drive screws
For Plasterboard (Into Studs)
- Confirm stud position (stud finder or knock test)
- Drill pilot hole through plasterboard into stud
- Drive screw directly - no plug needed
For Plasterboard (Cavity)
- Drill hole sized for your cavity fixing
- Insert hollow wall anchor/toggle
- Tighten according to fixing type
- Attach bracket
Step 7: Attach the Shelf
Place shelf on brackets and fix from below (usually screws up through bracket into shelf).
Final check: Place spirit level on the actual shelf surface. Adjust if needed (bracket screw holes often have slight play for adjustment).
Common Mistakes
1. Trusting Your Eye
Your eye is wrong. Always use a spirit level. Rooms are rarely square, and optical illusions happen.
2. Measuring from a Reference That's Not Level
"60cm up from the worktop" - but what if the worktop isn't level? Always check your reference.
3. Wrong Fixings
Heavy books on a shelf held by small rawlplugs in plasterboard = disaster.
4. Not Enough Brackets
Long shelf + two brackets = sag in the middle. Add more.
5. Rushing
Taking an extra 5 minutes to double-check is better than redoing the whole job.
Floating Shelves
Floating shelves (no visible brackets) need extra care.
How they work: A concealed bracket or cleat screws to wall; shelf slides over it.
Critical points:
- The hidden bracket MUST be level (you can't adjust later)
- MUST be in studs or very secure cavity fixings (the bracket carries all the load)
- Follow manufacturer instructions precisely
Common problem: Floating shelves tilting forward. Usually means bracket is slightly wrong or fixings aren't strong enough.
Alcove Shelving
For shelves in alcoves (chimney breasts etc.):
Method 1: Battens
- Fix a batten (wooden strip) level on each side wall
- Shelf rests on battens
- Can add batten at back too for extra support
Method 2: Shelf Supports
- Drill holes for adjustable shelf supports
- Insert supports at correct height
- Place shelf on supports
Alcove challenge: Walls are rarely square. Measure at the back AND front, then cut shelf to fit (often slightly different widths).
Heavy Load Shelves
For books, vinyl records, or anything weighty:
- Use more brackets - Every 30-40cm for heavy loads
- Stronger fixings - Shield anchors in brick, into studs for plasterboard
- Thicker shelf material - 18mm minimum, 25mm for heavy loads
- Brackets that extend fully - Bracket should support most of shelf depth
Quick Checklist
Before you drill:
- Know your wall type
- Right fixings for wall and load
- Position marked with spirit level
- Holes marked precisely
- Checked it twice
Want shelves done right? I hang shelves across Exeter - from simple floating shelves to full wall systems. Call 01392 964094 or get a quote.
Sam Hembury
Sam is the founder of Hembury Contracting, providing professional handyman services across Exeter and Devon. With years of experience in property maintenance, he shares practical tips to help homeowners tackle common tasks.
