Frost-free tap installation in Exeter
Professional frost-free tap installation services in Exeter and surrounding areas. Local, reliable handyman - no job too small.
Price Guide
£110-210
Typical Duration
2-4 hrs
Location
Exeter, Devon
Frost-free taps installed for outdoor use - valve inside the building means no frozen pipes, no burst mains, no winter plumbing emergencies.
Stop Fighting Frozen Taps Every Winter
If you've dealt with burst outdoor taps after a cold snap, you know how much hassle and expense it causes. Frozen pipes, no water when you need it, emergency plumber callouts. Frost-free taps solve this properly - one-time installation that works winter after winter.
💡 Pro tip: Frost-free taps are brilliant for rural properties - stables, barns, livestock areas where you need outdoor water year-round but can't be constantly draining down pipes when frost threatens.
Standard Outdoor Tap vs Frost-Free Design
| ✅ Frost-Free Tap | ❌ Standard Outdoor Tap |
|---|---|
| Valve inside building (warm) | Valve at the tap outside (freezes) |
| Pipe drains when you close it | Water sits in pipe - freezes solid |
| Works all winter, no special care | Burst pipes in first hard frost |
| Install once, works for years | Annual winter ritual of lagging/draining |
| Peace of mind in cold weather | Worry every time temperature drops |
What You Get
🔧 The Full Installation
| Stage | What Happens |
|---|---|
| Assess | Check existing supply and best route |
| Plan | Work out pipe run into warm space |
| Drill | Make hole through wall if needed |
| Pipe | Run supply pipe to valve point inside |
| Fit | Install frost-free tap assembly |
| Slope | Ensure slight fall for drainage |
| Test | Check operation and drainage |
| Seal | Make good around wall penetration |
📦 You're Left With
- Outdoor tap that won't freeze
- No more burst pipe emergencies
- Works reliably all winter
- One less thing to worry about
Pricing Guide
| Setup Complexity | Estimated Time | You'll Pay |
|---|---|---|
| Simple replacement, short run | 2 hrs | £110 |
| New installation, wall penetration | 3 hrs | £160 |
| Complex routing or multiple taps | 4 hrs | £210 |
Based on £60 minimum (first hour) + £50/hr after. Add materials - frost-free tap assembly, copper/plastic pipe, fittings, wall sealing. May need separate quote for very complex installations.
Essential For Rural Devon Properties If...
✅ Stables and barns - reliable water for horses year-round
✅ Livestock areas - filling troughs in any weather
✅ Yard washing - hosing down without winter shutdown
✅ Remote buildings - places you can't easily drain down daily
Why Choose Us for Frost-free tap installation in Exeter?
No more burst pipes in winter freezes
Water drains back when you close the tap
Works down to serious sub-zero temperatures
Perfect for barns, stables, and outdoor yards
What to Expect
Step 1: Check Existing Setup
I'll look at your current tap and water supply, work out the best route to get the valve end inside somewhere warm. Sometimes it's straightforward, sometimes needs creative routing. I'll be straight about what's involved.
Step 2: Run The Supply
Might mean drilling through a wall, or routing pipe through existing holes. The key is getting the valve end into a space that stays above freezing - doesn't have to be heated, just not exposed to frost.
Step 3: Install And Test
Fit the frost-free tap assembly with a slight downward slope for drainage. Test it thoroughly - turn on, turn off, check water drains out properly. Make good any wall penetrations so they're watertight and tidy.
🔧 DIY Tips
Fancy installing your own frost-free tap? Here's what you're up against:
🔧 Tools and materials needed
- Frost-free tap assembly (correct length for your wall thickness)
- Copper or plastic pipe and fittings
- Pipe cutter and/or hacksaw
- Blow torch and solder (for copper) or solvent weld (plastic)
- Drill with masonry bit for wall penetration
- PTFE tape
- Wall sealing compound
- Spirit level (to check slope)
🚰 Key principles
- Valve must be in space that stays above 0°C
- Tap body needs to slope slightly downward for drainage
- Wall penetration must be sealed against water and drafts
- Pipe from valve to tap must be one continuous fall
- Choose tap length to suit your wall thickness
🔨 Installing properly
- Measure wall thickness precisely before buying tap
- Drill hole with slight downward angle to outside
- Connect supply pipe to warm side of valve
- Mount tap with subtle downward slope - use level to check
- Turn on and off several times, check water drains out completely
- Seal around wall penetration with exterior-grade sealant
- Label the indoor shutoff valve clearly
⚠️ Common DIY mistakes
- Wrong length tap for the wall thickness
- Not sloping the tap body downward - water doesn't drain
- Valve end in space that still freezes (garage, unheated shed)
- Poor wall sealing - water penetration or drafts
- Kinks or upward slopes in pipe run - prevents drainage
- Not testing drainage before finishing job
💡 Pro trick: After installation, test it properly - close the tap and watch the outlet. You should see water dribble out as the pipe drains. If it doesn't, there's a problem with the slope or the valve isn't working right. Fix it now, not when you've got a burst pipe in January.
Rather leave it to a pro? No problem - that's what I'm here for. Give me a call.
Good to Know
❄️ Devon cold snaps: We don't get prolonged hard frosts often, but when we do it's brutal for unprotected pipes. Frost-free taps are designed for proper northern winters - they'll handle anything Devon throws at them if installed correctly.
Still protect other pipes: The frost-free tap itself doesn't need lagging, but any other exposed plumbing still does. Don't assume the whole system is protected just because the tap is frost-free.
Turning off: You still use them like normal taps - turn off when not in use. The difference is they drain automatically when off, so no special winterization needed.
Heated buildings: The valve end just needs to be in a space above freezing - doesn't need to be your house. Heated stable blocks, workshops, even thick-walled stone outbuildings that don't freeze properly all work fine.
Length matters: Frost-free taps come in different lengths - you need one that matches your wall thickness (plus a bit). Too short and the valve's still outside, too long and it won't fit properly. Measure carefully before ordering.
Multiple taps: If you need several outdoor water points, I can run a protected main line to multiple frost-free taps. More efficient than separate runs for each tap.
Frequently Asked Questions
How does a frost-free tap actually work?
The valve that stops the water is inside the building where it's warm, not at the tap itself. When you turn it off, water drains out of the exposed pipe automatically. Nothing left in the pipe to freeze and burst. Much better than standard outdoor taps that leave water sitting in the pipe.
Can you fit one to my existing outdoor tap?
Usually, yes - I'll need to replace the tap assembly and possibly extend the pipe back into the building to where it's warm. Sometimes means drilling through a wall or finding an alternative route. I'll check what you've got and advise on the best approach.
Will it work in really cold Devon winters?
Yes - frost-free taps are designed for proper freezing conditions, way colder than we get in Devon. As long as the valve end is inside where it's above freezing and the tap slopes slightly downward for drainage, it'll work fine through our winters.
Do I still need to lag the pipes?
The exposed pipe from the frost-free tap doesn't need lagging - it drains empty when off. But any other plumbing that's exposed still needs protecting. I'll advise on what needs lagging and what's fine unprotected.
Can you install them on stables and barns?
Absolutely - that's where they're most useful. Rural properties with outdoor water points for horses, livestock, or washing down yards. Saves the hassle of turning off and draining taps every cold night, and prevents expensive burst pipe emergencies.
Frost-free tap installation Also Available In:
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