Post and rail fencing in Exeter
Professional post and rail fencing services in Exeter and surrounding areas. Local, reliable handyman - no job too small.
Price Guide
POA
Typical Duration
1+ days
Location
Exeter, Devon
Post and rail fencing built solid and straight - deep posts, treated timber, proper construction. Classic rural boundary that looks good, contains stock safely, and lasts for years.
Traditional Fencing Done Properly
Post and rail is the classic rural fence - looks right, works well, lasts if it's built properly. The difference between fencing that stays straight and solid versus one that's sagging and wonky after a few years is taking time to do it right.
💡 Pro tip: Don't skimp on post depth - minimum 2-3ft in the ground for stability. Shallow posts are the number one reason fencing fails early.
Why Professional Installation Matters
Anyone can nail rails between posts. Building fencing that stays straight, solid, and stock-proof takes proper technique.
| ✅ Done Right | ❌ Done Wrong |
|---|---|
| Posts deep, straight, properly spaced | Wobbly after first winter |
| Rails level and securely fixed | Gaps horses get legs through |
| Treated timber throughout | Rotting after 5 years |
| Built to proper height for stock | Animals escaping regularly |
What You Get
🔧 Complete Fencing Service
| Stage | What Happens |
|---|---|
| Site survey | Line marked, levels checked, posts counted |
| Post installation | Posts driven/dug deep, set straight and true |
| Rail fitting | Rails measured, cut, fitted level and secure |
| Final check | Line checked, all fixings tightened, tested |
📦 Boundary Ready
- Solid posts that won't move
- Rails level and properly secured
- Stock-safe construction
- Built to last decades
Typical Projects
Every site is different - I quote properly once I've seen your land and know what you need. Typical factors:
- Ground conditions: Rock, clay, soft ground (affects post installation)
- Terrain: Flat, slopes, corners, gates needed
- Fence height: Two rail, three rail, height for your stock
- Length: Small paddock vs long field boundaries
- Access: Can I get equipment in, or hand work needed?
Call for a free site visit and proper quote.
Perfect For Your Property If...
✅ Horse paddocks - safe boundary, won't trap legs
✅ Cattle fields - solid containment, visible boundary
✅ Rural aesthetics - looks right in countryside settings
✅ Long-term solution - want fencing that lasts, not temporary
Why Choose Us for Post and rail fencing in Exeter?
Posts driven deep and solid
Treated timber that lasts
Built level and straight
Stock-proof and safe
What to Expect
Step 1: Site Visit & Quote
I'll visit your property, walk the fence line, check ground conditions, discuss height and rail options. Work out materials needed and give you a proper written quote.
Step 2: Installation
Posts go in first - driven with post rammer or dug and concreted depending on ground. Checked for line, level, and spacing. Rails fitted once posts are solid.
Step 3: Completion
Final walk-through checking everything's tight and secure. Gates fitted if needed. Clean up any mess, job done.
🔧 DIY Tips
Building your own post and rail fencing? Big job, but doable:
🔧 Tools and materials needed
- Treated fence posts (4x4 or bigger)
- Treated rails (varies by design)
- Post rammer or post hole digger
- Spirit level and string line
- Drill and screws or nails
- Chainsaw or hand saw
- Tape measure
📐 Planning the run
- Mark fence line with string between end posts
- Work out post spacing (8-10ft typical)
- Check for underground services first
- Allow for gates and access points
- Check boundary lines (don't fence other people's land!)
✂️ Installation sequence
- Set end posts first, deep and solid
- String line between them for alignment
- Install line posts, checking spacing and straightness
- Let posts set (concrete needs 24-48hrs if used)
- Fit bottom rail first, working along whole run
- Add upper rails, checking level as you go
- Fix all rails securely to posts
⚠️ Common DIY mistakes
- Posts not deep enough (fence wobbles/falls)
- Poor post alignment (fence wanders)
- Rails not level (looks terrible)
- Using untreated timber (rots quickly)
- Wrong height for stock (animals escape or injure themselves)
- Inadequate fixings (rails fall off)
💡 Pro trick: When fitting rails, start bottom first and work up - easier to get level and you can use lower rails to stand on while fitting upper ones.
Rather leave it to a pro? No problem - that's what I'm here for. Give me a call.
Good to Know
🐴 Stock type matters: Horses need rounded edges or capped rails (no splinters), higher fencing (4-5ft), and closer rail spacing. Cattle are less fussy but need strength. Sheep? Post and rail won't contain them - use stock fencing instead.
Timber quality: All timber must be properly treated (pressure-treated best). "Tanalised" or similar treatment needed for ground contact posts. Saves money in the long run.
Gates: Budget for proper field gates at access points - cheaper to install during fencing than retrofit later.
Maintenance: Check fixings annually, tighten anything loose. Posts rot at ground level eventually - keep eye on them and replace before they fail.
Planning permission: Usually not needed for agricultural fencing on farmland, but check if near roads, footpaths, or in protected areas.
Frequently Asked Questions
What's involved in building post and rail fencing?
Posts driven or dug in deep (typically every 8-10ft), checked for line and level, then rails fitted between them - either mortised into posts or nailed/screwed on. All timber needs to be treated for outdoor use. Takes time to do properly but lasts for years.
How much does post and rail fencing cost?
Varies hugely depending on height, number of rails, ground conditions, and length. I quote per project once I've seen your site and know what you need. Expect it to be cheaper than stock fencing but more than plain wire.
What's better - two rail or three rail?
Depends what you're containing. Horses usually want three rails for safety (stops them getting legs through). Cattle often fine with two rails. Sheep? Forget it - they'll go straight through. I'll advise what suits your stock when you call.
Can you replace sections of existing fencing?
Yes - matching new sections to old fencing is common work. I'll match post spacing, rail height, and fixing method to blend in. Sometimes means working around wonky old posts, but it's doable.
How long will it last?
Properly treated timber posts and rails should last 15-20 years minimum. Posts rot first (ground contact), rails follow. Quality of timber treatment and how well drainage works around posts makes the difference.
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