Dash cam cable hide in Exeter
Professional dash cam cable hide services in Exeter and surrounding areas. Local, reliable handyman - no job too small.
Price Guide
£60-£85
Typical Duration
45-60 mins
Location
Exeter, Devon
Dash cam cables hidden professionally in your car's trim. No dangling wires, no messy installation - just a clean, factory-fitted look.
From Messy to Invisible
You've fitted a dash cam and now you've got a cable draped across your windscreen like Christmas lights. Or worse, you paid someone to fit it and they've bodged the wiring with sticky pads and exposed cables.
💡 Pro tip: How the cables are hidden makes the difference between "professional installation" and "stuck it on and hoped." Get it done right.
Installation Done Properly
| ✅ Done Right | ❌ Done Wrong |
|---|---|
| Cable tucked into headlining, invisible | Cable stuck to windscreen with adhesive clips |
| Routed behind A-pillar trim | Hanging down side of windscreen |
| Hardwired to fusebox or hidden socket | Trailing to 12V socket, still visible |
| Trim clips all secure, no rattles | Trim loose, rattles on every bump |
What You Get
🔧 The Full Service
| Stage | What Happens |
|---|---|
| Planning | Work out best cable route for your car |
| Trim Removal | Carefully remove headlining and pillar trims |
| Cable Routing | Hide cables completely in trim cavities |
| Power Connection | Connect to fusebox or concealed 12V socket |
| Testing | Verify camera works, trim secure, no rattles |
📦 You're Left With
- Completely hidden cables
- Dash cam that looks factory-fitted
- Clean interior, no messy wires
- Professional installation you can be proud of
Pricing Guide
| Installation Type | Estimated Time | You'll Pay |
|---|---|---|
| Front camera only | 45-60 mins | £85-£60 |
| Front + rear cameras | 1.5-2 hrs | £85-£110 |
| Tidy existing messy install | 30-45 mins | £60-£85 |
Based on £60 minimum (first hour) + £50/hr after. Assumes dash cam already mounted, just cables to hide.
Perfect For...
✅ New dash cam - want it installed properly from the start
✅ Messy DIY job - you fitted it, now want cables hidden
✅ Professional look - selling car soon, want clean installation
✅ MOT prep - cables dangling can cause advisory for obscured vision
Why Choose Us for Dash cam cable hide in Exeter?
Cables hidden in headlining and trim
No wires dangling across windscreen
Professional, factory-fitted look
Power supply connected neatly
What to Expect
Step 1: Route Planning
I work out the best cable path for your specific car - some have easy access to fuse boxes, others need creative routing. Always planning for the neatest result.
Step 2: Trim Removal & Cable Routing
Headlining edge pulled back enough to tuck cable in. A-pillar trim removed carefully. Cable threaded through, completely hidden from view. Trim clipped back securely.
Step 3: Power Connection & Testing
Connect to fusebox (hardwired) or route to concealed 12V socket. Test camera powers on correctly, records properly, trim doesn't rattle. Job done.
🔧 DIY Tips
Want to hide your own dash cam cables? It's fiddly but doable:
🔧 Tools you'll need
- Plastic trim removal tools (never use screwdrivers)
- Cable routing tool or stiff wire
- Fuse tap (if hardwiring to fusebox)
- Multimeter (for finding correct fuse)
- Zip ties or cable clips
🚗 Basic cable routing
- Tuck cable up into headlining gap at windscreen top
- Route along headlining to A-pillar
- Remove A-pillar trim carefully (usually clips)
- Feed cable behind trim down to dashboard
- Route under dashboard to power source
🔌 Power connection options
- 12V socket: Easiest but cable visible unless socket hidden
- Fuse tap: Takes ignition-switched power from fusebox, cleanest install
- OBD port: Some dash cams use this, but blocks diagnostics
⚠️ Common DIY mistakes
- Using screwdrivers on trim (breaks clips every time)
- Forcing cable behind trim (creates rattles)
- Tapping into wrong fuse (either always-on or high-current)
- Not leaving slack at camera end (cable pulls tight when adjusting)
💡 Pro trick: When routing cables, leave a small service loop near the camera. If you need to remove or adjust the dash cam later, you've got slack to work with instead of tightly routed cables.
Rather leave it to a pro? No problem - that's what I'm here for. Give me a call.
Good to Know
🎥 Got front and rear cameras? Running the rear cable takes longer but looks much better than trailing it through the car. I run it properly through trim - you won't see it at all.
Parking mode cameras? These need permanent power for motion detection when parked. That's a more complex installation requiring separate wiring to battery and low-voltage cutoff. Takes longer and costs more.
Trim concerns? I've done hundreds of these on everything from old Fiestas to new Teslas. I know which trims are fragile and how to remove them without damage. Your interior's safe with me.
Frequently Asked Questions
How do you hide the dash cam cables?
I tuck the cable up into the headlining, down the A-pillar trim, under the dashboard, and connect to power - either the fusebox for permanent installation or a hidden 12V socket. You won't see any wires when I'm done.
Will you damage my car's trim?
No - I use proper trim removal tools and work carefully. Modern car trim clips back in place without damage when removed correctly. I've done hundreds of these without breaking trim pieces.
Can you wire it to come on with ignition?
Yes - that's called hardwiring to the fusebox. Dash cam powers on when you start the car, off when you switch off (unless you want parking mode, which needs different wiring). Cleaner than using the 12V socket.
What about rear cameras?
Running cable from front to back takes longer - usually adds 30-45 minutes. Cable runs along headlining, down pillars, under sill trims to boot. It's doable but more involved than front-only installation.
How long does cable hiding take?
Front camera only, about 45 minutes to an hour. Front and rear cameras together, more like 1.5-2 hours. Depends on how accessible your car's trim is and where the power source ends up.
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