Garage door seal replacement in Exeter
Professional garage door seal replacement services in Exeter and surrounding areas. Local, reliable handyman - no job too small.
Price Guide
£60-£110
Typical Duration
45-90 mins
Location
Exeter, Devon
Garage door seals replaced properly - bottom seals, side seals, all the weather excluders. Stop draughts, rain, and leaves blowing into your garage.
Stop The Wind Tunnel Effect
Every time you walk past the garage you can feel the draught. Or you open the door and there's a pile of leaves that have blown in. Or worse, there's a puddle because rain's been coming in underneath.
New seals = dry, draught-free garage that doesn't fill with leaves.
💡 Pro tip: If you're getting condensation or damp in your garage, check the seals first. Often it's cold air getting in underneath that's causing the problem, not a leak in the roof.
Why Bother With Seals
They're just rubber strips, but they make a difference:
| ✅ With Good Seals | ❌ With Knackered Seals |
|---|---|
| Dry floor, no puddles | Water comes in when it rains |
| Stays warmer in winter | Cold garage, freezing |
| No leaves or debris | Constant sweeping needed |
| Less condensation/damp | Everything feels damp |
The reality: Good seals don't cost much and make the garage noticeably better. Worth doing.
Pricing Guide
| Job Type | Time | You'll Pay |
|---|---|---|
| Bottom seal only | 45-60 mins | £60-£85 |
| Bottom + side seals | 60-75 mins | £85-£110 |
| Full perimeter (large door) | 75-90 mins | £85-£110 |
Based on £60 minimum (first hour) + £50/hr after. You supply seals, I fit them.
Types of Garage Seals
🔧 Bottom seal (threshold seal):
- Most important one
- Runs along bottom of door
- Stops rain, draughts, leaves
- Usually rubber or brush strip
📦 Side & top seals:
- Fit around door frame
- Reduces draughts
- Less critical but helpful
- Often foam or rubber strip
⚠️ Threshold bar:
- Aluminium strip with rubber insert
- Fitted to floor, not door
- Good for uneven floors
- Slightly different job
Why Choose Us for Garage door seal replacement in Exeter?
New seals fitted around door
Draughts and rain excluded
Keeps leaves and debris out
Warmer, drier garage
What to Expect
Step 1: Remove Old Seal
Strip out the old perished seal - sometimes it's stuck solid, sometimes falls out in bits.
Step 2: Clean & Prep
Clean the channel or surface where new seal fixes. Needs to be clean for good adhesion.
Step 3: Fit New Seal
Install new seal, ensure it makes proper contact with floor/frame all the way along.
🔧 DIY Tips
Replacing garage door seals is pretty straightforward DIY:
🔧 Tools you'll need
- Utility knife
- Screwdriver (if seal is screwed in)
- Scissors (for cutting seal to length)
- Degreaser/cleaner
- New seal (correct length)
📐 Measuring for new seal
- Measure door width - add a bit extra (better too long than short)
- Check seal type - slide-in channel, screw-on, or adhesive
- Note the profile - flat, bulb, fin, or brush type
- Match old one - take a bit to the shop if unsure
🔩 Fitting the seal
- Remove old seal - pull out or unscrew
- Clean the channel - remove all old rubber and gunk
- Cut new seal to length - slightly oversize
- Feed into channel or screw down - work from one end
- Trim excess - once it's in and tested
⚠️ Common DIY mistakes
- Buying wrong profile (doesn't seal properly)
- Not cleaning channel first (seal won't stay in)
- Cutting too short (gaps at ends)
- Forcing wrong seal into channel (damages it)
- Not checking door closes properly with new seal
💡 Pro trick: Before buying new seal, close your door and see where the biggest gaps are. Sometimes you don't need full perimeter seals - just a good bottom seal makes 90% of the difference. Save your money.
Rather leave it to a pro? No problem - that's what I'm here for. Give me a call.
Good to Know
🔧 Uneven floors: If your garage floor slopes or is really uneven, a standard door seal might not work. Consider a threshold bar (aluminium strip fixed to floor) with adjustable rubber insert - compensates for floor levels.
Seal lifespan: Quality rubber seals last 8-10 years. Cheap ones might only last 3-4 years before they perish. Worth buying decent ones - it's only a few quid difference.
Winter fitting: Rubber seals are easier to fit in warmer weather (they're more flexible). In winter they're stiff and awkward. But if you're getting draughts, don't wait for summer!
Garage conversion: If you're planning to convert your garage to a room, proper seals are essential. Along with insulation and heating, they make it habitable.
Maintenance: Once a year, clean the seals and spray with silicone spray. Keeps them flexible and stops them sticking to the floor in winter.
Old doors: Really old garage doors sometimes have non-standard seal channels. You might need to improvise or use screw-on seals instead of slide-in types.
Frequently Asked Questions
Which seals does my garage door actually need?
Most doors have a bottom seal (rubber strip where door meets floor) and side/top seals. Bottom seal is usually the important one - it stops rain, draughts, and leaves getting in. Side seals are bonus but less critical unless there's big gaps.
How do I know if my seals need replacing?
If you can see daylight under the closed door, feel a draught, get water/leaves coming in, or the rubber is perished and cracked - time for new seals. Most last 5-10 years depending on quality and weather exposure.
Do I need to buy the seals first?
Better if you do - measure your door and get the right length. But if you're not sure what you need, send me a photo and measurements, I can advise. Most hardware shops and Screwfix stock standard seals.
Will new seals make my garage watertight?
They'll massively reduce water ingress, but garages aren't designed to be fully watertight - there's usually some ventilation. New seals will stop rain blowing in under the door and reduce damp, but won't turn it into a habitable room.
How long does seal replacement take?
Bottom seal on a standard door - 45 mins to an hour. Full perimeter seals on a larger door - up to 90 mins. Depends on the door type and how stuck the old seal is.
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