Floor Varnishing in Exeter
Professional floor varnishing services in Exeter and surrounding areas. Local, reliable handyman - no job too small.
Price Guide
Quote
Typical Duration
Day+
Location
Exeter, Devon
Floor varnishing for sanded wooden floorboards. Multiple coats for protection, choice of finishes.
Protect Your Sanded Floorboards Properly
You've sanded your floorboards back to bare wood, and they look brilliant - smooth, clean, ready to go. But unfinished wood won't stay that way for long. Dirt gets ground in, water stains it, and wear shows up fast. Varnishing seals the wood, protects it from damage, and gives you a finish that'll last years if it's done properly.
💡 Pro tip: Don't skimp on coats. Three coats minimum, four if it's a hallway or kitchen. Each coat adds protection, and rushing it with two coats means you'll be refinishing sooner than you'd like.
Done Right vs Done Wrong
| ✅ Done Right | ❌ Done Wrong |
|---|---|
| Smooth, even finish with no brush marks | Visible streaks and brush strokes |
| Multiple thin coats for durability | Thick single coat that bubbles and peels |
| No dust or debris trapped in finish | Bits of dust and hair stuck in varnish |
| Consistent sheen throughout | Patchy finish with dull and shiny areas |
What You Get
🔧 The Full Service
| Stage | What Happens |
|---|---|
| 1. Preparation | Vacuum and wipe down sanded floor to remove all dust - varnish shows every speck |
| 2. First Coat | Seal coat applied with roller or brush, working with the grain |
| 3. Light Sand | Once dry, light sand with fine grit to smooth any raised grain |
| 4. Additional Coats | Two or three more coats applied, allowing proper drying time between each |
| 5. Final Cure | Floor left to cure fully before furniture goes back on |
📦 You're Left With
- Smooth, durable varnish finish
- Wood protected from water, dirt, and wear
- Choice of sheen - satin, gloss, or matt
- Floor ready for normal use in 48 hours (7 days for furniture)
Pricing Guide
Floor varnishing pricing depends on room size, number of coats, and varnish type. I'll quote based on square metreage once I've seen the floor.
| Scope | Typical Cost |
|---|---|
| Small bedroom (10-12 sqm, 3 coats) | Quote |
| Living room (20-25 sqm, 3 coats) | Quote |
| Hallway/kitchen (high traffic, 4 coats) | Quote |
Get in touch for a free quote - I'll need room dimensions and how many coats you want.
Perfect For Your Project If...
✅ You've just had floorboards sanded - And they need sealing to protect the bare wood
✅ Your old varnish is worn through in patches - Time for a proper sand and refinish
✅ You want a durable finish for high-traffic areas - Hallways, kitchens, living rooms that take a beating
✅ You're restoring original floorboards in an older house - Good varnish shows off the wood grain and adds character
Why Choose Us for Floor Varnishing in Exeter?
Durable protective coating for wood floors
Choice of finishes - satin, gloss, or matt
Multiple coats for long-lasting protection
Professional application, no brush marks
What to Expect
Step 1: Prep the Floor
The floor needs to be dust-free. I'll vacuum thoroughly and wipe down with a tack cloth to make sure there's no debris that'll get trapped in the varnish.
Step 2: First Coat
I'll apply the seal coat, working methodically to avoid missed patches or thick spots. This soaks into the wood and raises the grain slightly.
Step 3: Sand & Recoat
Once the first coat is dry, I'll give it a light sand to smooth the grain, then apply the next coat. Repeat for third and fourth coats if needed.
Step 4: Cure Time
You can walk on it carefully after 24 hours, but the varnish continues curing for a week. Don't put furniture back or you'll dent it.
🔧 DIY Tips
Floor varnishing is one of those jobs where patience matters more than skill:
🔧 What you'll need
- Floor varnish (water-based or oil-based)
- Roller and tray (or wide brush for edges)
- Fine sandpaper (220 grit)
- Tack cloth or damp rag
- Paint stirrer
📐 How to do it
- Make sure the floor is completely dust-free - any debris will show in the finish
- Stir varnish thoroughly (don't shake or you'll create bubbles)
- Apply first coat thinly with a roller, working along the grain
- Let it dry completely (check tin for times), then sand lightly with 220 grit
- Wipe dust off and apply second coat - repeat for third and fourth coats
⚠️ Common mistakes
- Applying varnish too thick - it takes forever to dry and can bubble
- Not allowing enough drying time between coats - new coat drags and looks messy
- Walking on the floor too soon - you'll leave footprints in the finish
- Varnishing in humid conditions - it won't cure properly
💡 Pro trick: Varnish in the morning so each coat has all day to dry. And open windows for ventilation, but close them before evening dew settles - moisture in the air will cloud the finish.
Rather leave it to a pro? No problem - that's what I'm here for. Give me a call.
Good to Know
🔧 Temperature matters: Varnish doesn't like cold or humidity. Ideal conditions are 15-20°C and low humidity. Don't varnish in winter with the heating off or in summer during a humid spell - the finish won't cure properly.
Combine with:
- Floor sanding
- Floorboard repairs
- Skirting board painting
Related services:
- Floor sanding
- Laminate flooring installation
- Wood floor oiling
Frequently Asked Questions
How long before I can walk on varnished floors?
Water-based varnish is touch-dry in 2-4 hours, but don't walk on it properly for 24 hours. Oil-based varnish takes longer - 6-8 hours before you can walk carefully, 48 hours before normal use. And don't put furniture back for at least a week, or you'll dent the finish before it's fully cured.
What's better - oil-based or water-based varnish?
Oil-based varnish is harder wearing and gives a warm amber tone to the wood, but it takes longer to dry and smells pretty strong. Water-based varnish dries faster, doesn't smell as much, and keeps the wood colour natural, but it's not quite as tough. For high-traffic areas, I'd go oil-based. For bedrooms, water-based is fine.
How many coats of varnish do you apply?
Minimum three coats. First coat soaks into the wood and seals it, second and third build up the protective layer. For heavy-traffic areas like hallways, I'd recommend four coats. More coats mean better protection and a deeper finish.
Can you varnish over old varnish?
Only if the old varnish is in good condition - no peeling, flaking, or wear patches. I'd need to sand it lightly to key the surface first. If the old finish is knackered, it needs stripping back to bare wood (floor sanding) before applying new varnish. Otherwise, the new coat won't bond properly.
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