Kerb installation in Exeter
Professional kerb installation services in Exeter and surrounding areas. Local, reliable handyman - no job too small.
Price Guide
£210-£410+ (incl materials)
Typical Duration
4-8 hrs
Location
Exeter, Devon
Concrete kerbs installed properly to edge your driveway or path - excavated, set on a concrete bed with haunching, levelled and aligned. Provides the solid edge restraint that makes driveways last.
Edge Restraint Isn't Optional
Block paving spreading? Tarmac edge crumbling? Gravel spilling everywhere? Proper kerbs stop all that - they're the backbone of any decent driveway.
💡 Pro tip: Kerbs are structural, not decorative. They resist massive lateral forces from paving and traffic. Installed properly they'll outlast your driveway surface - which is exactly how it should be.
Why Kerbs Matter
| ✅ Proper Kerbs Installed | ❌ No Kerbs or Failed Kerbs |
|---|---|
| Block paving stays tight and level | Blocks spread outward, gaps open |
| Tarmac edge supported | Edge crumbles and breaks up |
| Gravel contained | Stones migrate onto lawn |
| Clean definition | Blurred, messy boundaries |
| Drainage channel created | Water spreads everywhere |
Kerb Options
| Type | Height | Best For | Look |
|---|---|---|---|
| Half-batter kerb | 150mm | Driveways, functional | Angled face, traditional |
| Bull-nosed kerb | 150mm | Driveways, decorative | Rounded top edge |
| Dropper kerb | 100mm | Crossovers, vehicle access | Low profile for crossing |
| Edging kerb | 50-75mm | Paths, light use | Minimal visual impact |
I'll recommend what's right for your project - sometimes planning or building regs specify kerb types for dropped crossings.
What You Get
🔧 The Full Service
| Stage | What Happens |
|---|---|
| Mark Out | String lines set to show exact kerb line |
| Excavate | Trench dug to proper depth and width |
| Bed & Haunch | Concrete bed laid, kerbs set, haunching packed |
| Finish | Backfill, clean joints, remove excess concrete |
📦 You're Left With
- Rock-solid edge restraint
- Level, aligned kerbs
- Ready for paving installation or existing paving stabilised
- Professional finish built to last decades
Pricing Guide
Kerb installation is quoted based on linear metres, kerb type, and ground conditions:
| Run Length | Estimated Time | Typical Cost* |
|---|---|---|
| 5-8 metres | 4-5 hrs | £260-£340 |
| 8-12 metres | 5-6 hrs | £310-£390 |
| 12-15 metres | 6-8 hrs | £360-£490 |
Based on £60 minimum (first hour) + £50/hr after, plus materials (kerbs £8-12 each, concrete, sand). Difficult ground conditions (rock, old foundations) may take longer.
Why quoted? Ground varies massively - some trenches dig in 20 minutes, some hit Victorian foundations and take an hour. I'll assess and quote accurately before starting.
Perfect For Your Project If...
✅ New driveway - install kerbs first, they define everything
✅ Existing drive spreading - add edge restraint before it gets worse
✅ Dropped kerb/crossover - meet planning requirements properly
✅ Path definition - create clean edges and drainage channels
Why Choose Us for Kerb installation in Exeter?
Concrete kerbs set on proper haunching
Provides essential edge restraint for driveways
Level, straight lines or smooth curves
Long-lasting - will outlive most paving
What to Expect
Step 1: Set Out & Excavate
I'll set string lines to show exactly where kerbs will run - you'll see the line before I start digging. Then excavate trench to the right depth (typically 300mm+ for driveway kerbs).
Step 2: Bed, Set & Haunch
Concrete bed goes in first (50-75mm). Kerbs placed on wet concrete, tapped to line and level. Then the critical bit - concrete haunching packed tightly behind the kerb (100-150mm thick wedge). This is what gives it strength.
Step 3: Finish & Clean
Once concrete has gone off (few hours), I'll carefully backfill with soil, remove excess concrete splashes, and clean the kerb faces. Clean lines, ready for paving or immediate use.
🔧 DIY Tips
Kerb laying is tough DIY - it's heavy, physical work requiring some skill:
🔧 Tools you'll need
- Spade, shovel, pickaxe (for tough ground)
- String line and pegs
- Spirit level (long one, 1m+)
- Wheelbarrow and bucket
- Trowel and float
- Lump hammer
- Gloves (kerbs are rough on hands)
📏 Setting out
- Mark your line with string and pegs - this is critical
- For curves, mark with spray paint or sand line
- Measure and order kerbs (typically 900mm long, allow 10% extra for cuts/damage)
🏗️ Installation process
- Dig trench 300mm deep, 300mm wide
- Compact bottom of trench
- Mix concrete (4:1 ballast:cement)
- Lay 50-75mm concrete bed
- Place kerb on wet concrete, tap to line and level with lump hammer
- Pack concrete haunching tight behind kerb (100-150mm thick wedge)
- Work in 3-4 metre sections before concrete goes off
- Backfill next day once concrete has cured
⚠️ Common DIY mistakes
- Trench too shallow (kerbs tip forward under load)
- Skimping on haunching concrete (main cause of failure)
- Not keeping consistent level (looks terrible, doesn't drain)
- Rushing (concrete sets fast - work carefully in small sections)
- Poor compaction under concrete bed (kerbs settle unevenly)
💡 Pro trick: For curves, wet the back of each kerb before setting. Makes the concrete stick better and helps prevent the kerb sliding out of position while you're working.
Rather leave it to a pro? No problem - that's what I'm here for. Give me a call.
Good to Know
🚗 Dropped kerbs for vehicle access. If you're creating or widening a driveway entrance, you might need planning permission and definitely need to meet highway authority specs. I'll advise what's needed - sometimes it requires proper highways contractor involvement.
Hard ground? Digging kerb trenches in compacted ground, old concrete, or rocky soil is brutal work. If I hit that, the job takes longer - but it needs doing properly. I'll keep you informed if ground conditions are tougher than expected.
Exeter's older driveways? You might hit Victorian brick foundations, old drain runs, or random rubble under the surface. I'll work around what's there, but sometimes we need to adjust the plan based on what we find. No two old properties are the same.
Frequently Asked Questions
What's the difference between kerbs and edging?
Kerbs are taller (usually 150-200mm face height) and beefier - designed for driveways where you need serious edge restraint. Edging is lower profile for garden beds and lighter-use paths. For block paving driveways, you need proper kerbs or the whole surface will eventually spread outwards.
Can you install kerbs to an existing driveway that's spreading?
Yes - that's a common job. I excavate alongside the existing paving, set the kerbs in concrete, then backfill. Immediately stops further spreading and stabilises the whole surface. If blocks have already moved, we might need to lift and re-lay the edge course as well.
Do kerbs need to be set in concrete?
Absolutely - they're holding back significant lateral forces from the paving and vehicle traffic. Concrete haunching (thick wedge of concrete behind the kerb) is what gives it strength. Without proper haunching, kerbs tip forward or outward within months. This isn't a place to cut corners.
How long does typical driveway kerbing take?
Single driveway (one or both edges, maybe 10-15 metres total) usually takes 4-6 hours including excavation, concreting, and cleanup. Longer runs or complex curves take more time. I'll quote based on your specific layout and ground conditions.
How long before the kerbs are solid enough to use?
Concrete needs 24-48 hours to cure properly before taking weight. I'll backfill carefully so there's no obvious tripping hazard, but avoid driving right up to the kerb edge for a couple of days. After that it's rock-solid permanently.
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